Beckey放弃登婆缪峰,终身成就奖

翻译:Coco  Yinan

弗瑞德Beckey(弗瑞德·Beck雷),那位20世纪高大的攀援传说,具备迄今世界上最多的首登记录保持者,这几个为攀爬流浪毕生的“侠客”纵然在有生之年也从不远隔最疼爱的山岩。二〇一三年国庆中间,已经90高寿的他与一支美国登山队来到了本国四川地区,欲尝试四丫头山区海拔达5413米的婆缪峰。但鉴于Beckey的身体景况无法适应当地的海拔及气象,老人家决定将于9日进驻至婆缪峰西侧的长坪沟木骡子营地为青春的登山队员们做技导,助他们搜寻新的登上顶峰路线。

  2003 Golden Piton Awards - Lifetime Achievement Fred Beckey

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Fred Beckey 的人生历程纪录片《FredBeckey 的户外传奇人生》

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捌拾玖周岁的Fred Beckey国庆里面来到青海计划尝试婆缪峰

  While a list of revered,veteran North American climbers is long,the roll of those who’ve reached true Iconic status is short. Near the top of that brief list is Fred Beckey. His unsurpassed first-ascent record,extensive contributions to the history and literature of the sport,and his ZEALous,lifelong sacrifice of economic comfort in pursuit of maximum climbing time leaves him without peer.

一切始于早先时代这几个主张 - 作者主宰亲手写一封只怕长久不会被展开的信,并且也断然未有奢望会有人回信。

藕榭山管理局户外Beckey放弃登婆缪峰,终身成就奖。骨干杨伟太老板告诉记者,七月二二十一日,Beckey率队到达贾惜春山景区,经过休整适应原安顿于1月5日进山,那位长者骨子里有极度倔强的动感,他不肯马匹和轮椅、拒绝搀扶、拒绝全体大家感到对一人长者理所应当的帮带。但鉴于人体不适,贝基最后决定放弃攀缘婆缪峰,而是采取达到离婆缪峰近年来的军基,中距离感受婆缪峰的味道。

  Arguably one of the most prolific First Ascentionists in climbing history,Beckey has a tick list of FA’s that range from obscure one-pitch rock routes,to desert towers,to the most storied Alaskan summits. Allen Steck and Steve Roper’s timeless 50 Classic Climbs of North America,still the bible of exemplary routes,lists eight Beckey climbs,from the West Ridge of Alaska’s Mount HUNTER,to The North Face of Alberta’s Mount Edith Cavell,to the South Face of California’s Charlotte Dome.

第一,笔者必须找到收信人的地点。但是本身的主人公有地址吗?我不分明。

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和队友合影

  A list of Beckey’s partners reads like a Who’s Who of climbing for the past several decades:Fritz Wiessner,Ed Cooper,Galen Rowell,Eric Bjornstad,Pat Callis,Yvon Chouinard,and John Middendorf have all shared a rope with him,to name just a few. Add to that hundreds,if not thousands,of relatively anonymous climbers who’ve joined him for brief spans in his relentless pursuit of the vertical. Many of these climbers,exhausted at trip’s end and preparing to return to “regular” life,snap a farewell photo of Beckey;most of these images show him ensconced in a phone booth,lining up a partner for his next adventure.

直接以来,对团结垂怜运动领域的先驱者们,笔者都抱有大幅度的野趣。作为极个别富有冒险精神的户外人,他们带着沉重的配备,为我们在地图上的荒地地带开垦道路。他们是真的的探险家。而笔者,作为纪录片发行人,平日由这几个顽强倔强的人,幻想能够塑造出完美的影片剧中人物。

婆缪峰海拔5413米,系横断山系的邛崃山脉,位于青海省阿坝州小金县与汶川县相会处贾惜春山风景区内,是一座难于攀援的高海拔手艺型山峰,属于大岩壁攀援。

  Beckey’s passion for the mountain environment has made him expert in geography,geology,and a host of other naturalist subjects. That expertise,combined with Beckey’s love of history and the written word,has resulted in a writing career that spans seven decades. ASIde from his voluminous contributions to the American and Canadian Alpine Journals,he has found time between climbing binges to author several classic books,including Challenge of the North Cascades;the three-volume Cascade Alpine Guide (a.k.a. the “Beckey Bible”);Mount MCKINLEY:Icy Crown of North America;and Mountains of North America.

十多年前,作者读到一篇有关 Fred Beckey 的小说。在那之中涉嫌,为获取额外收入,弗瑞德Beckey 以往在东西边宣传 DickBarrymore 的滑雪影视。Fred激起了自己的野趣。作为攀援者,未有人比 Beckey 更具神秘感了。大家关于她神秘的攀岩黑皮书的浮言热热闹闹,平生未娶的他,作为美国最早的户外探险人,首攀的门路数量天下第一。小编刚还好此前的一个影片项目中结识了Barrymore,所以就向她驾驭制作 Fred 纪录片的主见。他笑了,说:“作者愿意为电影的造作出钱!”何况给了作者Beckey 的地点。

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海拔5413米的婆缪峰

  Beckey also stands out as a staunch individualist. While his iconoclastic style has earned him many partners and friends,it also has ruffled the feathers of the climbing “establishment”, who,on more than one ocCASIOn,dismissed him as too individualistic and too unsafe for large Expedition efforts. Despite having been to 25,000 feet on Lhotse in 1956,Beckey was denied a spot on the 1963 American Everest expedition,though his résumé far outstripped that of any member of the expedition. He responded by making a slew of first ascents that year in the Cascades,Sierra,Wind Rivers,and Canadian Rockies.

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弗雷德Beckey 在 50 号高等第公路 Lover's Leap 攀岩区相邻招手搭车,北达科他太地区浩湖外(照片来自:Corey Rich) 

据了然,在十多年前Beckey就有攀援四丫头山的布置,但迅即由于各种原因未遂,而十多年后捌拾玖周岁龟年的他却依然不愿屏弃。Beckey为啥会依旧坚持不渝采取四女儿山区颇具难度婆缪峰呢?

  But Beckey’s crowning achievement is his enduring climbing-bum lifestyle. From an early age he has put climbing first and foremost in his life,making ends meet as need be,purely for funding his next excursion. His thrift tactics are legend- partners tell of sample-scamming in supermarkets and endless cycles through the free-coffee-refill line. Now entering his ninth decade,he still puts climbing at the fore,cobbling together a combination of book royalties,slide show revenues,and contract research work. While most his age are doddering about in retirement homes or just plain dead,Beckey is out there,the climbing-bum Bodhisattva,living the pure,zealous climbing life of which we can only dream.

多少个月后,在大约忘了寄出的信时,小编的电话响了。二个新奇的响声喊道:“小编是Beckey。小编会在犹他州滑雪,假设你想来作者得以去那儿。”

杨太伟告诉记者,Beckey尽管年事已高,但一生都以登山为乐,挑战极限和难度进一步不以为奇。在他看来,西藏的山很有特点,而登藕丫头山更具备技艺难度,特别吸引他。

  二零零三年金岩钉奖--一生成就奖弗瑞德 Beckey(easy rider译自Climbing第230期)

自家立刻凌乱了!在 6 小时的车程后,作者一贯到了犹他州的Alta镇,幸好联络弗瑞德之前滑多少个回合。在作者朝缆车滑去时,不得十分的大心调节方向,因为沿途就好像有人摔倒,雪杖、滑雪板飞落,一个半空着的背包位居这里,个中的道具头晕目眩地落在雪中,那时,小编恍然开掘到,那位正在计划滑雪的人就是FredBeckey 自己。

据掌握,从1938年到一九九七年,Becky一共成功登上顶峰上百座山体,并创制了数百条登山路径,个中饱含了北美最知名的23条线路。从1951年率先本书《Washington州攀缘者指南》于今,他已经有14本小说出版。

  在北美,经验丰硕、受人远瞻的攀缘者为数非常多,不过当中真正享有偶像地位的人却凤毛麟角。弗瑞德Beckey正是那少数人中的超级高手。他所保持的首登记录到现在未被超过,他对攀缘历史和文献做出了汪洋的孝敬,他为了有越多时间攀援而终身放任了恬适的生存——那个让任何比非常多的攀爬者难以赶得上。

本人实事求是地介绍了投机,欢娱终于看到了投机崇拜的那位攀岩界的大英豪。他抬伊始来,吼道:“今后自个儿不想跟你聊天。没瞧见小编很忙啊?过会儿给本身打电话。”

关于Fred Beckey

  作为攀援史上或许具备最多首登线路的攀爬者之一,贝克ey的首登记录包含了这几个偏僻的单绳距岩石线路,沙漠木塔,还只怕有阿Russ加那二个最资深的山峰。AllenSteck和SteveRoper关于杰出线路的独尊文章--《北美50条精粹攀缘路径》中援引了8条Beckey路径:阿Russ加Hunter峰西山脊路径,阿尔Bert伊迪丝Cavell峰北壁,蒙大拿Charlotte山南壁等。

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